What Are Springtails?
Springtails (class Collembola) are tiny, six-legged hexapods, typically just 1-3mm long, found in soil and leaf litter all over the world. Despite their size, they play a hugely important role in any bioactive vivarium or terrarium.
In the wild, springtails feed on fungi, mould, algae, bacteria and decaying plant matter. In a vivarium, this makes them the perfect “first line of defence” clean-up crew member: they break down waste, graze on mould that can appear on new substrate or wood, and help keep the soil microfauna in balance.
The species most commonly kept by UK hobbyists include Tropical White Springtails (Folsomia candida), a pale, fast-breeding species ideal for most tropical and temperate vivariums, and Temperate Springtails, which tolerate slightly cooler conditions and are well suited to bioactive setups for temperate species such as European reptiles and amphibians.
Springtails are completely harmless to your animals, plants and to you. They do not bite, sting, or damage healthy plants — they only consume decaying or fungal material.
Housing
Springtail cultures are typically housed separately from the display vivarium until you’re ready to seed your bioactive setup. A simple culture container can be made from any small, clear plastic tub with a lid.
- Use a substrate of charcoal, plaster of Paris, or a charcoal/coco-fibre mix — this helps regulate moisture and prevents mould overload.
- Drill a few small ventilation holes in the lid, or leave the lid slightly ajar, to allow gas exchange while retaining humidity.
- Keep the culture out of direct sunlight, which can overheat the tub and dry it out quickly.
- Once your culture is established, springtails can be added directly to your bioactive vivarium substrate, where they will continue to breed and spread naturally.
Feeding
Springtails are easy to feed and will happily live on the mould and fungi that naturally develop in a culture container or vivarium substrate. To boost a culture, add small amounts of:
- Dry active baker’s yeast, sprinkled lightly on the substrate surface.
- Fish flakes or spirulina powder, in small pinches.
- A small piece of boiled potato, sweet potato, or carrot, replaced before it grows excessive mould.
Feed little and often rather than adding large amounts at once — uneaten food can cause mites or bad odours. In an established bioactive vivarium, springtails generally need no additional feeding as they survive on detritus, leaf litter and naturally occurring fungi.
Temperature
Most springtail species used in the hobby are tolerant of a fairly wide temperature range, but breed fastest within their preferred zone:
| Tropical White Springtails | 20-28°C (room temperature to warm) |
|---|---|
| Temperate Springtails | 12-22°C (cooler rooms, unheated setups) |
Avoid placing culture tubs directly on or under heat sources such as heat mats, as this can dry out the substrate rapidly and stress or kill the colony. If your vivarium runs warm, choose tropical springtails; if it’s an unheated or cool-climate setup, temperate springtails are usually a better match.
Humidity
Springtails breathe through their skin and need a consistently moist (but not waterlogged) environment to thrive.
- The substrate should feel damp to the touch, with no standing water pooling at the bottom of the container.
- Mist culture tubs lightly every few days, or whenever the surface starts to look dry.
- A part-ventilated lid helps maintain humidity while still allowing fresh air exchange to prevent mould build-up.
- In a bioactive vivarium, springtails will naturally migrate to the moisture levels they prefer within the substrate — ensure your enclosure has a humidity gradient.
Breeding
Springtails reproduce extremely quickly under the right conditions, making them one of the easiest invertebrates to culture at home.
- Maintain consistent humidity and temperature — fluctuations slow down breeding and can crash a culture.
- Feed lightly but regularly to support a growing population without fouling the substrate.
- A healthy culture will show a visible “bloom” on the surface, especially after feeding — this is completely normal.
- To start a new culture or seed a vivarium, simply scoop a portion of substrate containing springtails into the new location.
- Avoid harvesting too heavily from a young culture — allow it to establish for several weeks before splitting.
Common Mistakes
Avoid these frequent springtail-keeping pitfalls:
The most common causes are the substrate drying out completely, overfeeding (leading to mould or mite infestations that outcompete springtails), or sudden temperature swings. Keep conditions stable and feed sparingly to avoid this.
Yes. Excess food left to rot can cause mould blooms, bad smells, and attract unwanted mites. Add small amounts of food and only top up once previous food has been mostly consumed.
Yes — while springtails need humidity, waterlogged substrate can drown a culture and encourage harmful bacteria. Aim for damp, crumbly substrate rather than wet sludge.
Once established, a healthy springtail population will sustain itself. However, many keepers like to “top up” their bioactive vivarium with a fresh culture every few months for extra resilience, especially after a bioload increase.
Springtails often retreat deeper into the substrate when the surface is dry or well-lit, and surface again after misting or feeding, especially at night. This is normal behaviour, not a sign the colony has died.
Ready to start your own culture? Shop our springtail cultures, or read our Bioactive Vivarium Guide to see how springtails fit into a complete clean-up crew.