Isopod Care Guide

Isopods (terrestrial woodlice) are one of the most popular bioactive clean-up crew species in the UK hobby. With hundreds of colour morphs and species available — from hardy beginner Porcellio and Armadillidium species to stunning display Cubaris — there’s an isopod for every vivarium and every keeper.

Housing

Most isopod species do best in a dedicated culture tub before being added to a display vivarium, allowing the colony to establish and grow without predation.

• Use a clear or opaque plastic tub with a secure, ventilated lid — isopods are excellent escape artists through small gaps.
• A substrate depth of 5-10cm is ideal, made from a mix of coco coir, leaf litter, sphagnum moss and decaying wood (also called “isopod substrate” or “bioactive substrate mix”).
• Add cork bark, half-buried wood, or egg crate to increase usable surface area and give isopods places to hide and graze.
• Keep culture tubs out of direct sunlight, which can cause overheating and rapid moisture loss.

Leaf Litter

Leaf litter is one of the most important elements of any isopod enclosure. It provides a primary food source, grazing surface for beneficial microfauna and fungi, hiding spots, and helps buffer humidity.

• Oak, beech, magnolia and Indian almond (catappa) leaves are all excellent choices and widely used in the UK hobby.
• Always use leaves that have not been treated with pesticides or fertilisers — commercially prepared leaf litter is safest for beginners.
• Replenish leaf litter every few weeks as it gets broken down — this is a sign your colony is healthy and active.
• A deep leaf litter layer also gives isopods somewhere to retreat after moulting, when they are most vulnerable.

Calcium Requirements

Isopods need calcium to harden their exoskeleton after moulting. Without enough calcium, colonies can suffer from poor moult success and slower growth.

• Add cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or a calcium supplement powder to the enclosure as a permanent calcium source.
• Limestone-based substrates or springtail/isopod substrates with added calcium carbonate also help maintain a steady supply.
• Watch for isopods congregating around a calcium source after moulting — this is completely normal behaviour.

Feeding

In addition to leaf litter and decaying wood, isopods benefit from regular protein and vegetable supplementation.

• Offer fish flakes, shrimp pellets, or commercial isopod food once or twice a week for protein.
• Vegetable scraps such as carrot, courgette, or sweet potato are readily eaten — remove uneaten pieces after 24-48 hours.
• Decaying hardwood (oak, alder, etc.) provides an ongoing food source and helps maintain humidity.
• Avoid citrus fruits, onion, garlic and salty or oily foods, which can be harmful.

Humidity

Humidity needs vary by species, but most popular UK isopods do best with a humidity gradient rather than uniformly damp conditions.

• Mist one side or area of the enclosure regularly, leaving another area drier — this lets isopods choose their preferred microclimate.
• Tropical species (e.g. many Cubaris and Porcellionides) generally prefer higher humidity (70-90%).
• Many hardy beginner species (e.g. Porcellio scaber, Armadillidium vulgare) tolerate a wider range and prefer slightly drier conditions with a damp hide area.
• Always check species-specific requirements, as overly wet conditions can be just as harmful as overly dry ones.

Ventilation

Good airflow is essential to prevent stale, stagnant conditions that can lead to mould, bacterial blooms, or mite infestations.

• Drill or punch multiple small holes in the lid of culture tubs — the exact number depends on humidity needs and tub size.
• Mesh-covered ventilation panels are ideal for display vivariums, allowing airflow while preventing escapes.
• If condensation regularly covers the inside of the lid, increase ventilation slightly or reduce misting frequency.

Breeding

Most isopod species breed readily in captivity once their care requirements are met consistently.

• Females carry fertilised eggs in a fluid-filled pouch called a marsupium, visible as a pale or dark patch under the body.
• After a few weeks, tiny white “mancae” (juvenile isopods) emerge and begin foraging independently.
• Stable temperature (20-25°C for most tropical species) and consistent humidity are the biggest factors in breeding success.
• Avoid disturbing the colony too often — frequent digging or rehousing can stress isopods and slow breeding.
• A growing population of visible juveniles of all sizes is the best sign of a healthy, breeding colony.